Review of Eggoland, Fitzrovia, for

Eggoland a concept that forces us to ask serious questions of ourselves. Questions like: Do I want to eat eggs at 6pm? Why can’t all food outlets cater for vegans like this? And is it socially acceptable to lick yolk from the wrapper my meal came in?
The first and third questions were answered during an opening night in Fitzrovia, but before that, a story about the founder.
Sohail Ahmad is an Afghan refugee who was 12 when he arrived in the UK in the back of a lorry. After being taken in by social services, his integration into British life began at the Swattenden Centre for young asylum seekers in Cranbrook and continued as he washed pots in restaurants to scratch a living. Thoughts of opening his own restaurant would have to wait, however, because after a stint as an amateur boxer he turned pro in 2015.
His nickname in the ring is Showstar and that’s also the name of the first dish on his menu. It’s a soft, chewy paratha wrap containing potatoes, cheese, harissa mayo, chives and raw eggs. Joke. This is not Rocky. The eggs are scrambled and while they won’t have you ready to face Apollo Creed, they are very tasty, with spicing that’s not so much a kick as a pleasant game of footsie.

The meat dishes are halal, so the bacon in the breakfast bap is beef bacon, and while its smokiness might test your appetite first thing in the morning, it sat surprising well on a weekday evening.
Eggoland was founded, the PR people say, because Ahmad was frustrated at being unable to order eggs how he likes them. Based on the Eastern Charm, a lamb burger with feta and mint, he likes them sticking satisfyingly to his teeth.
Eating here is a messy affair but it’s a diner vibe and everyone is too busy with their own carnage to care how you’re retrieving that spilt yolk.

It would be remiss not to mention that this is London, nothing is new, and restaurants such as Eggslut and Eggbreak are already appealing to people who don’t just like their eggs in the morning.
But while those places are trendy and charming and fit for an Instagram picture, Eggoland is bright and bold, and a tenner will get you anything on the menu, even the Feeling Decadent, which brings together shredded confit duck with a fried duck egg.
Ahmad hopes dishes like this will bring people in beyond brunch. Time will tell, but in the meantime, take a toothpick and some extra napkins.

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